When stalling became more frequent and I experienced the first "engine power reduced" mode, for some odd reason the DIC oil life gauge was reset to 100%? I had parts store pull these codes for me: CEL does not light up during its normal stalling or driving routine. It just started to light up a few days ago after a stall/shutdown to "reduced engine power". I think this is normal?Ĭheck engine light is normally not on. Long idling when it is hot outside, and coolant temp goes up to 210-225. I have cleaned the terminals of course, and tested the voltage (12.5v), but I did not have the battery load tested yet.Ĭooling appears normal, I've been watching it closely lately. I have checked and reseated every single fuse and relay under the hood and in the interior.Ĭar battery is fine, blower, lights, accessories, starter, etc work when engine shuts down. I cleaned the MAF sensor with MAF cleaner from parts store. (To be safe I followed the advice and disconnected battery, left key out of ignition, and carefully cleaned with a toothbrush and rag for wiping). I removed the throttle body for a careful cleaning like recommended on this site. Notes, diagnostics and what I have done in the past week to try and correct this:Ĭar is normally idling stable at about 900 rpm warm, 1100 rpm cold, until it decides to stall or cutout while driving. Car feels like a bucking horse going down the road using WOT to prevent stalls though, and I feel like I'm stressing the motor mounts and drive axles while in lower gears. Oddly, sometimes the tach drops down to 0 but the motor is still running, I constantly use gas pedal to check to see if engine is still on. WOT seems to help prevent the stalling for a very short time. Oddly, I noticed if it is stalling/coughing, at wide open throttle the car accelerates and stops choking. Drops down to 0, I gas it, goes back up, goes back down, coughs, goes back up, stalls again, and then returns to a normal idle. Tachometer is all over the place when stalling is occurring. I am forced to use the starter to get into limp mode, pull over, wait a couple minutes, and then restart and hope it doesn't happen again. I can't do this when it completely shuts down and wants to restart with "engine power reduced". Normally if I'm cruising and it stalls, I'll use the clutch the restart the engine. This has happened to me about once a day for the last 4 days which prompted me to really try to get this fixed, this is dangerous in traffic. After this happens, the check engine light is on temporarily, but it goes away after a couple of short trips. I can then restart and drive without the "reduced engine". I then pull over to side of road and wait a couple minutes. The engine stalling happens less frequently when it is raining and it is cooler outside.įor the last 4 days, after driving for about 30 minutes and restarting several stalls, the engine restarted with "engine power reduced", but the car is too slow to drive safely. This occurs MUCH MORE FREQUENTLY when it HOT outside and I have the A/C on (it is still 85 degrees here), and the engine has been fully warmed up and driven for at least 20 minutes. On a 30-45 minute commute to work, I might need to restart it 2-8 times. About a month ago the engine started stalling and shutting down at random intervals (from a dead stop, cruising, accelerating).įor the last month, engine shuts down or stalls and misfire (tach drops to 0) at somewhat random intervals. Some History: 165k miles, 3rd owner, ran perfect for the first 4 months I owned it. My Car: 2006 Cobalt LS, all stock except for rims and a stereo deck. I'm posting my problem with plenty of details from the last few months. Hello! This is one of the best forums for Cobalts, so I am here asking for advice from any Cobalt gurus that can help with my engine stalling problem.
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
Details
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |